How long does it take to develop a new product?
How long does it take to develop a new product?
It can take anywhere from 1 to several years from a product idea to the product being ready on the shelves.
That’s because we build each product individually from the ground up, to give each cream the best effect in its field. There are of course ingredients that are common to several products, but the quantity and composition is adjusted from cream to cream, and different “active” ingredients* are added depending on the property the cream needs.
Some things always go together, for example we always have Squalane in our Vitamin A products as Squalane can transport the Vitamin A into the skin, while other ingredients help to give the right texture, oiliness and feel.
*Actives are the active ingredients added to creams; for example, vitamin A in anti-aging creams, Glycerin in moisturizers or acids in exfoliating products.
From idea to reality
The idea for a product usually arises from a demand from customers or dealers, or if we internally see a need or have a desire for a new product.
The development department in Hadsund always has many products under development. It’s a long way from the idea to the product being ready in the shops. First of all, the idea must meet some requirements:
- is there a need
- is the product unique
- will the product make a difference
The right recipe
Then the formula – the recipe – must be found. This is done out of a desire for consistency and effect, for example. It takes time to find the right assets and ingredients; talking to raw material suppliers, ‘tinkering’ with formulas and maybe researching some brand new ingredients and their qualities and interactions with other content. If the right ingredients are not on the market, the product is ‘parked’ until the right one comes along.
There are also questions like; how the actives can be transported in the skin, if a depot needs to be built up in the skin, which ingredients need to work on the surface and which need to be in the depth etc.
Once the formula is in place, the process moves on to production.
The Symphonique series
An example of a longer development process is our Symphonique series. Symphonique was 4 years in development before the right formula was found. Development work included combining several vitamin A’s in a good and meaningful way, developing microcapsules to encapsulate the hyperactive Retinol, etc.
The series is based on the latest dermatological knowledge and is patent pending for its unique combination of effective skin care ingredients.
Ouverture – our water-based perfume
Another example is our perfume Ouverture, which is water-based. The original idea was just a perfume, but as we at Beauté Pacifique only make skin-enhancing products, the development department had to figure out how to put the perfume together. Through research and testing, we created one of the world’s first water-based fragrances that not only has an amazing scent, but also has moisturising properties.
Our productive sister company
Beauté Pacifique has its headquarters in Hadsund, where everything from marketing, purchasing and administration to development, export and warehousing is based. Across the street is our manufacturing facility GMPack, where the products are made.
GMPack is a manufacturing company specializing in the packaging of pharmaceuticals, natural remedies and dietary supplements – and in addition they produce and package Beauté Pacifique products.
The production is GMP certified. That is, approved to manufacture and package pharmaceutical products. Legislation in this area continuously requires more traceability and higher quality, and although the same high standards do not apply to cosmetic products, our skincare products are produced under the same conditions.
Before the first production of a new product starts, the formula is reviewed with the laboratory and adjusted if necessary. Then the production and testing of the cream starts. Maybe the quantities need to be tweaked for consistency, maybe a fragrance from one of the ingredients is becoming too dominant or something similar. Sometimes it hits the spot the first time and other times it takes 50 tests.
Testing
When the product is exactly as desired, the next step is to have it tested in reality by a test panel and at Ambulatoriet – our clinic in Hadsund. At Ambulatoriet we carry out relevant tests; this could be assessing the effect of a new moisturiser with a moisture measurement, assessing the anti-ageing effect of a cream from an ultrasound scan and similar. This way we can prove the effect scientifically and not just by looking at the skin from the outside.
Depending on the response, the product can be adjusted or put directly into production.
In this way, product development can extend over a shorter or longer period.
A cream takes the time a cream takes
Can’t it go any faster?
Yes, it can, but not without compromise. Among other things, a faster process would mean working from a basic recipe instead of building each product from scratch, or compromising on the development steps described above.
Our ambition is to improve people’s quality of life through better skin, and that’s why we don’t want to compromise. We recognise that the process can be lengthy and demanding, but it is a must if you want to make high quality products with the best properties.